Romanesque in white and black bands among the fields
Isolated in a green valley of the Logudoro, near Codrongianus, about 15 kilometres from Sassari, the Basilica of the Santissima Trinità di Saccargia is the most famous and photographed Romanesque church in Sardinia. Its striking appearance, with alternating bands of white limestone and black basalt, in the Pisan style, a tall bell tower and a portico on the façade, stands out against the fields and the sky.
The church was consecrated in 1116 and belonged to a monastery of Camaldolese monks, of which only a few ruins remain. According to legend, it was built by the judge of Torres, Costantino de Lacon, and his wife, who had stopped here on a pilgrimage and had received the grace of a son after praying. The name Saccargia is said to come from "s'acca argia", the "dappled cow", which according to another legend knelt here every day in prayer. Inside, in the central apse, is a precious cycle of twelfth century frescoes, rare in Sardinia, with Christ in glory, the apostles and scenes of the Passion, painted by artists from central Italy. The portico has carved capitals with animals and figures. Saccargia is the most famous of the many Romanesque churches of the Logudoro, an itinerary that also includes San Pietro di Sorres and Sant'Antioco di Bisarcio.
Tip: visit in the late afternoon, when the light warms the stripes of the façade; the church is a short detour from the main road from Sassari to Olbia.
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