ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 4 of 1001 · Piedmont

Casale Monferrato

The baroque synagogue and the castle

On the right bank of the Po, at the foot of the hills of the Monferrato, Casale Monferrato was from the fifteenth century the capital of the Marquisate, later Duchy, of Monferrato, ruled first by the Palaiologos dynasty, of Byzantine origin, and then by the Gonzaga of Mantua, and for a long time a powerful fortress disputed between France, Spain and the Savoy. Its centre preserves elegant palaces, baroque churches and the great castle of the Palaiologos, a hexagonal fortress with four corner towers and a moat, now used for exhibitions and events.

The cathedral of Sant'Evasio, consecrated in 1107, has a remarkable Romanesque narthex with crossed arches of Armenian inspiration, unique in Italy. But the jewel of the city is the Synagogue, built in 1595 in the old Jewish ghetto and considered one of the most beautiful in Europe: behind a modest façade it hides a sumptuous baroque hall, with gilded stuccoes, wooden decorations and inscriptions in Hebrew. The complex houses the Jewish Museum and the original Museum of Lights, with a collection of Hanukkah lamps created by contemporary artists. Casale is also known for its krumiri, curved butter biscuits invented in 1878 by the pastry chef Domenico Rossi, said to be inspired by the moustache of King Victor Emmanuel II.

Tip: the synagogue is open on Sundays and by appointment; buy krumiri in the historic shops of the centre.

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