ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 335 of 1001 · Emilia-Romagna

Comacchio

The little Venice and the Trepponti

In the middle of the lagoons of the Po Delta, Comacchio is a small town built on thirteen islands, crossed by canals and connected by bridges, which has earned it the name of "little Venice". For centuries its inhabitants lived on fishing in the surrounding lagoons, the "valli", and especially on the eel, which was caught in autumn with ingenious traps, the "lavorieri", and preserved marinated in vinegar. The symbol of the city is the Trepponti, a monumental bridge built in 1638 by the architect Luca Danesi, with five staircases converging on a central platform over the confluence of several canals, once the main entrance to the city from the sea, guarded by two towers.

Walking along the canals you discover pastel-coloured fishermen's houses, the Ponte degli Sbirri, the eighteenth century Loggia dei Cappuccini, with its 143 arches, and the old Fish Market. The Manifattura dei Marinati, a former factory where eels were roasted and marinated, has been restored and shows the traditional processing with its large fireplaces. The Museo Delta Antico displays finds from the Etruscan city of Spina and the cargo of a Roman ship found in the area. Every year, in autumn, the Sagra dell'Anguilla, the eel festival, celebrates the town's tradition with dishes such as eel "ai ferri", grilled, or "in umido", stewed. From Comacchio, boats take you on excursions into the valli of the Po Delta park.

Tip: take a boat tour of the canals in the historic centre; visit the Manifattura dei Marinati to understand the history of the eel.

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