ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 745 of 1001 · Puglia

Monopoli

The old harbour and coves among the rocks

On the coast south of Polignano, Monopoli is a lively seaside town that has kept a strong maritime soul. Its old town, enclosed by sixteenth century walls facing the sea, is a maze of white lanes, small squares and churches, gathered around the Porto Vecchio, the old harbour, crowded with small blue and red fishing boats, the "gozzi", where fishermen still mend their nets and sell their catch on the quay in the morning.

The baroque cathedral of the Madonna della Madia holds a Byzantine icon that, according to tradition, arrived floating on a raft of wooden beams in 1117, just when the beams were needed to finish the roof of the church. The Castle of Charles V, on a point over the sea, hosts exhibitions. South of the town, the coast is dotted with about twenty small coves among the rocks, with crystal-clear water and patches of sand, such as Cala Porta Vecchia, right under the walls, Cala Paradiso, Porto Ghiacciolo and Capitolo; in the countryside behind lie many fortified masserie and the rock churches of the lame, the ancient karst ravines. Monopoli is a good base for exploring the coast and the Itria Valley.

Tip: in summer, the coves fill up quickly; arrive early or explore them in the off season. Try the raw seafood at the stalls on the harbour.

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