ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 220 of 1001 · Veneto

Murano

The furnaces of blown glass

A few minutes by vaporetto from the northern shore of Venice, Murano is an island, or rather a small archipelago of islands joined by bridges, famous all over the world for its glass. In 1291 the Republic ordered all glass furnaces to move here from the city, both to reduce the risk of fire in a city of wooden houses and to protect the secrets of the craft: the master glassmakers enjoyed great privileges, but were forbidden to leave the Republic.

Murano glassmakers invented or perfected extraordinary techniques: crystal, the transparent "cristallo" of the fifteenth century, enamelled glass, millefiori, filigree, the great chandeliers ("ciocche") and mirrors. Today you can watch the masters at work in the furnaces, shaping the incandescent glass with blowpipes and pincers, and visit the many shops, but beware of imitations sold as Murano: look for the "Vetro Artistico Murano" trademark. The Museo del Vetro, in Palazzo Giustinian, tells the history of glass from Roman times to today. The Basilica of Santi Maria e Donato, with a twelfth century mosaic floor and an apse mosaic of the Virgin on a gold background, is one of the oldest churches of the lagoon.

Tip: many furnaces offer free demonstrations, followed by a visit to the showroom; buy only from shops that can certify the origin.

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