ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 291 of 1001 · Liguria

Santa Margherita Ligure

The Belle Époque on the gulf

In the Gulf of Tigullio, on the eastern side of the Portofino promontory, Santa Margherita Ligure is an elegant seaside resort that in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries became one of the favourite destinations of the European aristocracy and bourgeoisie, who built here Belle Époque villas and grand hotels, still visible along the seafront. Its long promenade, lined with palm trees, colourful palaces with painted façades and cafés, overlooks a harbour full of boats and yachts, and the town is the main starting point for Portofino, about five kilometres away, reachable by boat, by bus or on foot along the coastal road and path.

Above the harbour, on the hill, Villa Durazzo is a sixteenth century noble residence surrounded by a splendid park with Italian and English gardens, camellias, citrus trees and terraces overlooking the gulf, and a museum with period furniture and paintings; it can be visited and hosts events and weddings. On the seafront stands the castle, a small fortress built in 1550 by the Republic of Genoa to defend the town from the raids of Saracen pirates. The baroque Basilica of Santa Margherita d'Antiochia, with a rich interior of gold and marble, is the main church. Santa Margherita is famous for its fishing tradition and especially for its red prawns, considered among the finest in the Mediterranean, which are served raw or grilled in the restaurants of the harbour. From the town, the Portofino Natural Park offers walks among villages and abbeys, such as the abbey of Cervara.

Tip: walk the seafront road to Portofino, about an hour, with views of the coast; taste the local red prawns.

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