ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 950 of 1001 · Sardinia

Tiscali

The nuragic village hidden in a sinkhole

In the heart of the Supramonte of Oliena and Dorgali, inside the Monte Tiscali, lies one of the most mysterious and evocative archaeological sites in Sardinia: a nuragic village hidden inside a huge collapsed karst sinkhole, a sort of open-air cave with a diameter of about 100 metres, invisible from the outside and accessible only through a narrow crack in the rock. The sinkhole is partly covered by a great rock vault and filled with holm oaks, terebinths and ancient junipers.

Inside, among the vegetation, are the remains of about 40 huts, circular and rectangular, built of limestone and wood, dating back to the late nuragic period and inhabited, according to scholars, until Roman and perhaps early medieval times. It is believed that the village was a refuge for the nuragic populations of the interior, who hid here from the Roman invaders, taking advantage of the inaccessibility of the place. The atmosphere, in the silence of the sinkhole, with the light filtering through the opening, is unforgettable. The site can be reached only on foot, along a path of about 2 hours each way from the Valle di Lanaittu, through Mediterranean scrub and limestone rocks, with some steep stretches. The Valle di Lanaittu also has the Sa Sedda 'e Sos Carros nuragic village and caves such as Sa Oche.

Tip: go with a local guide, the paths are not always well marked; bring water and good shoes, and avoid the hottest hours.

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