ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 294 of 1001 · Liguria

Apricale

The village of artists

In the hinterland of Bordighera, in the Val Merdanzo, a side valley of the Val Nervia, Apricale is a medieval village perched on the top of a hill, one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", with stone houses arranged in concentric circles around the summit, crowned by the castle, and joined by narrow lanes, stairways, arches and covered passages. Its name probably derives from the Latin "apricus", exposed to the sun, because of its sunny position. Its centre is the small, enchanting Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, overlooked by the church of the Purification, the oratory of San Bartolomeo and the town hall, a sort of natural stage among the houses.

Since the 1980s, Apricale has become a village of artists: painters, sculptors and craftsmen from all over Europe have settled here, and the walls of the houses are decorated with dozens of colourful murals and works of art, which make a walk through the village a continuous discovery, along with craft shops and art galleries. The Castello della Lucertola, the Lizard Castle, of medieval origin, houses a museum of the history of the village and hosts exhibitions. In summer, the square becomes an open-air theatre, with performances by the Teatro della Tosse of Genoa, in which the inhabitants also take part. The village is also famous for its Sagra della Pansarola, in September, a festival dedicated to a sweet fried dough served with zabaglione. From Apricale, paths lead through olive groves and woods to the nearby villages of Perinaldo, where the astronomer Cassini was born, and Baiardo.

Tip: park outside the village and walk up; in summer, check the programme of theatre performances in the square.

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