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No. 297 of 1001 · Liguria

Dolceacqua

The bridge painted by Monet and the Rossese

In the Val Nervia, a few kilometres from the sea of Ventimiglia and Bordighera, Dolceacqua is one of the most picturesque medieval villages of western Liguria, one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia". It is divided into two parts by the Nervia stream: on one side, the oldest district, the Terra, a dense maze of dark, narrow lanes, covered passages, stairways and stone houses huddled together on the slope, at the top of which rise the ruins of the Castle of the Doria, the lords of the village from the thirteenth century; on the other side, the newer Borgo. The two parts are connected by an elegant medieval bridge with a single arch, about 33 metres wide.

In 1884, Claude Monet, who was staying in Bordighera, came to Dolceacqua and was so enchanted by the bridge that he defined it "a jewel of lightness" and painted it in several canvases, together with the castle. The village is also famous for its red wine, the Rossese di Dolceacqua, the first DOC in Liguria, made from Rossese grapes grown on the steep terraces of the valley, with a ruby colour and an aroma of red fruit and spices, which Napoleon is said to have loved. A local legend tells that the lord of the castle, Imperiale Doria, claimed the "right of the first night" with every bride of the village, until a young bride, Lucrezia, refused him and was imprisoned; the villagers revolted, and since then they have celebrated their liberation with the "michetta", a sweet bread with a symbolic shape, prepared in August for the festival of the same name.

Tip: taste the Rossese in one of the wineries of the village; the castle, partly restored, hosts exhibitions and offers a view over the roofs.

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