ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 32 of 1001 · Piedmont

The Carnival of Ivrea

The Battle of the Oranges

The Historic Carnival of Ivrea is one of the oldest and most unusual carnivals in Italy, and its highlight is spectacular: the Battaglia delle Arance, the Battle of the Oranges. For three days, from Carnival Sunday to Shrove Tuesday, in the squares of the historic centre, thousands of people, divided into nine teams of "aranceri" on foot, wearing colourful costumes, throw oranges at the "aranceri" on horse-drawn carts, who represent the troops of the tyrant, wearing protective helmets and masks, in a fierce, noisy battle that leaves the streets covered with orange pulp and juice.

The carnival commemorates, according to tradition, a revolt of the people of Ivrea against tyranny in the Middle Ages: the legend tells of the Mugnaia, the miller's daughter Violetta, who on her wedding night refused the "droit du seigneur" of the cruel marquis and cut off his head, sparking the revolt of the people, who burned his castle. Every year a young woman of the city is chosen to play the Mugnaia, who parades through the streets on a carriage throwing sweets and mimosas. Other moments of the carnival are the parade of the Generale and his staff, in Napoleonic uniforms, the burning of the "scarli", poles covered with heather, in the squares, and the traditional fagioli grassi, beans cooked with pork in large cauldrons in the squares, distributed to everyone on Ash Wednesday.

Tip: spectators who do not want to be hit must wear the red Phrygian cap, the "berretto frigio", sold everywhere; watch from behind the protective nets.

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