ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 58 of 1001 · Aosta Valley

Arnad and its Lard

The DOP lard aged in the doils

In the lower Aosta Valley, the village of Arnad, with its vineyards, chestnut woods and the beautiful Romanesque church of San Martino, with frescoes, is famous throughout Italy for a delicacy with an ancient history: the Vallée d'Aoste Lard d'Arnad DOP, the only lard in Europe with a protected designation of origin. It is produced from the back fat of pigs, cut into pieces and placed in layers in the "doils", traditional containers of chestnut or oak wood, or of stone, alternating with salt, garlic, bay leaves, sage, rosemary, juniper, pepper and other mountain spices and herbs, and covered with brine; here the lard matures for at least three months, acquiring a white colour with pink veins, a soft texture and a delicate, sweet and aromatic flavour.

Lard d'Arnad is traditionally eaten in very thin slices on rye bread or on warm chestnuts, with a drizzle of honey, or on slices of toasted bread, accompanied by a glass of red wine of the valley, such as the Arnad-Montjovet, produced from Nebbiolo grapes on the terraced vineyards of the area. It is also used in many traditional recipes, such as soups and polenta. In the last weekend of August, the village celebrates the "Fête du Lard", the lard festival, with tastings, stalls of local products, music and traditional games, which attracts thousands of visitors. In the shops and farms of Arnad, you can buy the lard and other cured meats of the valley, such as the "motsetta" and the "boudin".

Tip: taste the lard on rye bread with chestnut honey; come at the end of August for the Fête du Lard.

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