ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 31 of 1001 · Piedmont

Fenestrelle Fort

The 'great wall of Piedmont'

In the Val Chisone, south west of Turin, near the border with France, the Forte di Fenestrelle is the largest Alpine fortification in Europe and one of the largest fortresses in the world, nicknamed the "Grande Muraglia Piemontese", the Great Wall of Piedmont. It was built by the Savoy between 1728 and 1850 to defend the valley from French invasions, and consists of a series of forts, redoubts and batteries connected by walls that climb the slope of the mountain for about three kilometres, with a difference in height of about 600 metres, from 1,200 to 1,800 metres.

The most impressive feature is the Scala Coperta, the "Covered Staircase", an incredible staircase of about 4,000 steps protected by a stone tunnel, which connects the lower fort, the Forte San Carlo, with the upper one, the Forte delle Valli, allowing soldiers to move safely under enemy fire. Over the centuries the fort was also used as a prison: political prisoners, cardinals during the Napoleonic period and, after Italian unification, soldiers of the former Bourbon army were held here, in very harsh conditions. Guided tours of different lengths, from one hour to a whole day, lead through the forts, the barracks, the powder magazines and along the Scala Coperta, with breathtaking views over the valley.

Tip: the full tour along the Scala Coperta takes about seven hours and requires good shoes and fitness; book in advance. The fort is open from spring to autumn.

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