ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 973 of 1001 · Sardinia

Neptune's Grotto

The cave reached by the Escala del Cabirol

At the foot of Capo Caccia, the great limestone headland that closes the bay of Alghero, the Grotta di Nettuno is one of the most spectacular sea caves in the Mediterranean. Discovered by local fishermen in the eighteenth century, it opens just above sea level at the base of a sheer cliff, and extends for about 4 kilometres, of which a few hundred metres can be visited, along a path that winds among enormous stalactites and stalagmites, columns and concretions, around a large salt-water lake, the Lamarmora lake, which reflects the formations of the vault.

There are two ways to reach it. By boat, from the port of Alghero, with a trip of about 45 minutes along the coast, which offers views of the cliffs and the Capo Caccia lighthouse. Or on foot, along the Escala del Cabirol, the "roe deer's staircase", a dramatic staircase of 654 steps carved into the vertical rock face in 1954, which descends from the top of the cliff, about 110 metres high, to the entrance of the cave, with breathtaking views over the sea and the island of Foradada. The climb back up is tiring but unforgettable. The area is part of the Porto Conte Regional Natural Park, with the Capo Caccia marine reserve, where griffon vultures and wild horses can be seen.

Tip: the cave closes when the sea is rough, especially in winter, because waves can enter it; check before going and bring good shoes for the stairs.

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