The city of stone and master goldsmiths at the foot of the Majella
On a terrace at the foot of the Majella, in the province of Chieti, Guardiagrele is a historic town that Gabriele D'Annunzio called "stupenda terra di pietra", wonderful land of stone, for the light stone with which its houses, churches and palaces are built. One of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", it is a gateway to the Majella National Park, with splendid views over the mountain and over the hills that slope down to the Adriatic. Guardiagrele owes its fame above all to its long tradition of craftsmanship, in particular goldsmithing: in the fifteenth century, it was the home of Nicola da Guardiagrele, one of the greatest goldsmiths of the Italian Renaissance, author of precious processional crosses, reliquaries and altar frontals, now kept in churches and museums in Abruzzo and beyond.
The heart of the town is the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, with a massive bell tower that serves as an entrance, a museum with works by Nicola da Guardiagrele, and, on the outside wall, a large fresco of Saint Christopher, painted in 1473 by Andrea Delitio, the protector of travellers. The craft tradition is still alive in the workshops of the town, which produce jewellery, wrought iron and copper objects, and lace. Guardiagrele is also famous for a typical sweet: the "sise delle monache", the nuns' breasts, a curious sponge cake filled with custard, with three soft bumps, sprinkled with icing sugar, whose name has given rise to many amused stories.
Tip: taste the sise delle monache in a historic pastry shop; visit the museum of Santa Maria Maggiore and the craft workshops.
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