ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 590 of 1001 · Lazio

St John Lateran and the Holy Stairs

The cathedral of Rome and the staircase climbed on the knees

Many think St Peter's is the cathedral of Rome, but the true cathedral, "mother and head of all churches", is the Archbasilica of St John Lateran, founded by Constantine in the fourth century. Its imposing façade of 1735 is crowned by fifteen giant statues of Christ and the saints, and the interior, redesigned by Borromini, holds the colossal statues of the apostles and, above the papal altar, a Gothic ciborium with the relics of Saints Peter and Paul. The cloister is a jewel of Cosmatesque mosaics.

Across the square, a building houses the Scala Santa, 28 marble steps that tradition identifies with the staircase of Pontius Pilate's palace in Jerusalem, climbed by Christ during his Passion and brought to Rome by St Helena. The faithful climb it on their knees; at the top is the Sancta Sanctorum, the private chapel of the popes.

Tip: the steps, recently restored, are now protected by wood; side staircases can be climbed on foot. The Lateran obelisk in front is the tallest in Rome.

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