ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 938 of 1001 · Sicily

The Dancing Satyr and the Kasbah

A Greek bronze from the sea and the Arab quarter of Mazara del Vallo

In 1998 the fishing boat Capitan Ciccio from Mazara del Vallo, one of the largest fishing ports in Italy, pulled up from the sea between Sicily and Tunisia the bronze body of a dancing satyr, a Greek masterpiece of the fourth century BC, perhaps by Praxiteles or his school. The figure, with its head thrown back and hair flying, is caught in the whirl of a Dionysian dance. After restoration it returned to Mazara, where it is displayed in the deconsecrated church of Sant'Egidio.

The city also has a Kasbah, the old Arab quarter of narrow lanes and courtyards, today inhabited by a large Tunisian community and decorated with colourful ceramic tiles and murals. The Norman cathedral and the seafront along the river harbour complete the visit.

Tip: taste the red prawns of Mazara, famous throughout Italy, and couscous, which here has strong ties with the other shore of the Mediterranean.

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