ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 450 of 1001 · Tuscany

The Abbey of San Galgano

A roofless Gothic abbey and a sword thrust into a rock

In the countryside south west of Siena stands one of the most evocative ruins in Italy: the Cistercian abbey of San Galgano, a great Gothic church of the thirteenth century whose roof collapsed long ago. Today the nave is open to the sky, with grass for a floor and empty rose windows framing the clouds, a setting that has fascinated painters and filmmakers.

On the hill above stands the round Rotonda di Montesiepi, built over the hermitage of Galgano Guidotti, a knight who renounced war in 1180 and, as a sign of his conversion, thrust his sword into the rock. The sword is still there, protected by a glass case, and scientific tests have dated its metal to the twelfth century.

Tip: in summer concerts and operas are staged in the roofless nave; the light is magical in the late afternoon.

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