ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 716 of 1001 · Campania

Atrani

One of the smallest towns in Italy, a nativity scene by the sea

Just a few minutes' walk from Amalfi, beyond a small headland, Atrani is one of the smallest municipalities in Italy by area, less than a quarter of a square kilometre. Squeezed into the mouth of the Dragone valley, it is a tangle of white houses, vaulted alleys, covered passages and staircases climbing on top of one another, so picturesque that it is often compared to a nativity scene placed by the sea.

The heart of the village is the small Piazza Umberto I, an enchanting square closed on all sides by houses, which you enter through an arch from the beach, with cafés and the church of San Salvatore de' Birecto, where the doges of Amalfi were once crowned. Above, the church of Santa Maria Maddalena has a majolica dome and bell tower that overlook the sea. Atrani has been the backdrop for many films and commercials and was the setting of a scene in the series "Ripley". Its small beach is quieter than Amalfi's.

Tip: walk from Amalfi to Atrani along the old path through the alleys, avoiding the road; try the "sarchiapone", a stuffed courgette, a local speciality.

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