ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 358 of 1001 · Emilia-Romagna

Cervia and its salt pans

Sweet salt and flamingos

On the Adriatic coast south of Ravenna, Cervia is a seaside resort with long sandy beaches and a large pine forest, but its history is linked to a precious resource: salt. For over two thousand years, since Roman times, salt has been produced in the salt pans behind the town, and in the Middle Ages it was so valuable that the city was contended between Venice, Ravenna and the Papal State. In the seventeenth century, the old town, located in the unhealthy middle of the salt pans, was moved closer to the sea, where the present historic centre was built, a planned settlement with a square plan, the houses of the salt workers arranged around the square, and the huge salt warehouses.

The Salina di Cervia, of about 800 hectares, is still active and is part of the Po Delta park. It produces the "sale dolce", the sweet salt, so called because it contains fewer bitter salts than other sea salts, thanks to the particular climate and an ancient harvesting method. The salt pans are also an important natural oasis, where flamingos, herons, avocets and black-winged stilts live, which can be observed on foot, by bike or with boat and electric boat excursions among the basins. In the town, the MUSA, the Salt Museum, housed in the old Torre warehouse, tells the story of the salt workers. In summer, the ceremony of the salt harvest recalls the old traditions, and every year on Ascension Day the town celebrates the Sposalizio del Mare, the marriage of the sea, throwing a ring into the water.

Tip: the visitor centre of the salt pans organises guided tours at sunset; buy the sweet salt of Cervia, also flavoured with herbs.

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