ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 851 of 1001 · Calabria

Chianalea di Scilla

The fishermen's village with houses on the water below Castello Ruffo

On the Costa Viola, at the northern entrance of the Strait of Messina, Scilla is one of the most picturesque villages in southern Italy, built around a rocky promontory crowned by the Castello Ruffo, a fortress of ancient origin, rebuilt by the Ruffo princes, which dominates the sea and the Strait. The place is linked to one of the most famous myths of antiquity: according to Homer's Odyssey, on this rock lived Scylla, a terrible sea monster with six dog heads, who devoured sailors passing through the Strait, while on the opposite Sicilian shore lurked Charybdis, the whirlpool; "between Scylla and Charybdis" is still an expression for a dangerous dilemma.

To the north of the castle lies the most charming district of Scilla: Chianalea, the old fishermen's quarter, called the "Venice of the South", a long, narrow street of stone houses built directly on the rocks, with their foundations in the sea, so close to the water that the waves lap against the walls, and between the houses narrow alleys lead to small landing places where the boats are moored. Scilla is famous for its tradition of swordfish fishing, practised in May and June with the "passerelle", special boats with a tall mast for the lookout and a very long bow walkway from which the harpooner throws the harpoon, an ancient technique of Greek origin. In the bars of Chianalea, the classic "panino al pesce spada" is served. To the south of the castle, the beach of Marina Grande stretches out, with its clear water.

Tip: have dinner in a restaurant on the water in Chianalea; climb up to the castle for the view over the Strait at sunset.

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