ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 886 of 1001 · Sicily

Caravaggio at the Museum of Messina

Two late masterpieces by Caravaggio and the art of Antonello da Messina

In 1608 and 1609 Caravaggio, a fugitive after escaping from prison in Malta, spent several months in Messina, where he painted two of his most moving late works. Both are now in the Museo Regionale di Messina (MuMe): the Raising of Lazarus, with the dead man's body stiff in the shape of a cross caught between death and life, and the Adoration of the Shepherds, a humble nativity in a bare stable, painted for the Capuchins.

The museum also holds the Polyptych of San Gregorio by Antonello da Messina, the great fifteenth century painter born in the city, who brought Flemish oil painting techniques to Italy, as well as works rescued from the churches destroyed by the 1908 earthquake, sculptures by Montorsoli and a rich collection of decorative arts.

Tip: the museum is in a modern building north of the centre, easily reached by tram; allow at least two hours. Combine it with the Fontana di Orione in Piazza Duomo.

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