ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 753 of 1001 · Puglia

Ostuni, the White City

The whitewashed centre that dominates the olive groves

On three hills at the edge of the Murgia, between the Itria Valley and the sea, Ostuni is known as the "Città Bianca", the White City: its old town, the "Terra", is a compact cluster of houses entirely whitewashed with lime, which dazzle in the sun and can be seen from far away above a sea of olive trees stretching down to the Adriatic. The tradition of painting with lime, which had a hygienic purpose during plague epidemics and reflected the light in the narrow lanes, is still maintained, and in some areas it is required by the municipality.

The old town is a labyrinth of steep stepped lanes, arches, courtyards, external staircases and small squares, enclosed by Aragonese walls. At the top stands the late Gothic cathedral, built in the fifteenth century, with an extraordinary rose window of 24 rays and a curved, three-lobed façade. Below lies Piazza della Libertà, with the column of Sant'Oronzo, the town's patron saint, from which there is a view over the plain of olive trees and the sea. The Museo delle Civiltà Preclassiche displays the cast of Delia, a young woman who lived about 28,000 years ago, found pregnant in a nearby cave. The coast below Ostuni has long beaches and the Dune Costiere regional park.

Tip: Ostuni is at its most magical at sunset, when the white houses turn pink and gold; in summer the lanes are full of restaurants and bars.

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