Apennine villages itinerary

The Apennines are the backbone of Italy: a chain of mountains running the whole length of the peninsula, and in the centre, between Abruzzo, the Marche and Umbria, they reach their wildest and highest. Here, far from the art cities, lie stone villages perched on rocky spurs, high plateaus grazed by flocks and wild horses, national parks where bears and wolves still live, and a cuisine of lentils, saffron, cheese and cured meats that has changed little in centuries.

This eight-day itinerary starts in Rome and crosses the central Apennines: the Gran Sasso with Santo Stefano di Sessanio, Rocca Calascio and the vast plain of Campo Imperatore, the Peligna valley with Sulmona, the villages of Scanno and Pescocostanzo, the Abruzzo National Park, then Ascoli Piceno, the Sibillini with Castelluccio and Norcia, and finally Gubbio. See also our pages on Abruzzo and Italy's villages.

1. Rome: arrival
2. Santo Stefano di Sessanio: the Medici village
3. Rocca Calascio: the castle in the clouds
4. Campo Imperatore: the "little Tibet"
5. Sulmona: Ovid and the confetti
6. Scanno: the heart-shaped lake
7. Pescocostanzo: lace and the Majella
8. Ascoli Piceno: the travertine city
9. Castelluccio: the Piano Grande
10. Norcia: Saint Benedict and the norcini
11. Gubbio: the medieval town

The central Apennines in brief

For centuries the life of these mountains followed the transhumance: every autumn shepherds drove their flocks down the tratturi, broad grassy tracks, to winter on the plains of Puglia, and returned in spring. Wool made some villages rich, which is why you find noble palaces, carved portals and fine churches in places that today have a few hundred inhabitants. In the 20th century emigration emptied many of them, and earthquakes, from L'Aquila in 2009 to Norcia in 2016, struck hard. Today some villages are coming back to life thanks to alberghi diffusi, hotels spread across restored houses, and to travellers in search of silence.

1. 43 BCThe poet Ovid is born in Sulmona
2. 1200sGubbio builds its great public palaces
3. 1400sThe Medici of Florence buy wool from Santo Stefano di Sessanio
4. 1922The Abruzzo National Park is founded
5. 1943Mussolini is held prisoner at Campo Imperatore
6. 2009The L'Aquila earthquake strikes the Gran Sasso villages
7. 2016The Norcia earthquake brings down the basilica of Saint Benedict

Day 1: from Rome to Santo Stefano di Sessanio

From Rome take the motorway towards L'Aquila and climb to Santo Stefano di Sessanio (about two hours), a village of pale stone at 1,250 metres. In the Renaissance it belonged to the Medici, who bought the local wool, and the Florentine coat of arms is still above some doors; the Medici tower, brought down by the 2009 earthquake, has been rebuilt. Wander the lanes, eat a soup of local lentils and watch the sunset over the hills.

Where to stay: in Santo Stefano di Sessanio, in an albergo diffuso, for two nights.

Day 2: Rocca Calascio and Campo Imperatore

In the morning drive or walk (about an hour and a half on foot) to Rocca Calascio, a castle at 1,460 metres, among the highest in Italy, with the octagonal church of Santa Maria della Pietà below it: a film set for Ladyhawke and The Name of the Rose. In the afternoon climb to Campo Imperatore, a high plateau about twenty kilometres long beneath the Corno Grande, the highest peak of the Apennines, with wild horses and flocks; it is often called "Italy's little Tibet". At the roadside huts, grill arrosticini, lamb skewers, on the embers. Stop at Castel del Monte on the way back.

Day 3: Sulmona

Head down to Sulmona (about an hour), the town of the poet Ovid, whose statue stands in the main square. Visit the Annunziata complex, walk along the medieval aqueduct in Piazza Garibaldi and stop at one of the factories of confetti, sugared almonds made into flower bouquets, with its small museum. See the confetti of Sulmona. In the afternoon drive through the Sagittario gorges to Scanno.

Where to stay: in Scanno or Pescocostanzo, for two nights.

Day 4: Scanno and the Abruzzo National Park

Scanno is a village of steep alleys where a few older women still wear the traditional dark dress; its images, photographed by Henri Cartier-Bresson and Mario Giacomelli, went around the world. Above the lake, the heart path leads to a viewpoint from which the lake looks heart-shaped. In the afternoon cross into the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park: in Pescasseroli there is the park visitor centre, and in Civitella Alfedena a wolf enclosure. With luck, at dusk, you may glimpse deer or even a Marsican bear.

Day 5: Pescocostanzo and the Majella

Pescocostanzo, on a high plain at the edge of the Majella, is one of the most refined villages in Abruzzo, with stone palaces, wrought-iron balconies, the basilica of Santa Maria del Colle with its carved ceiling, and a tradition of bobbin lace that you can see being made. In the afternoon drive north across the Majella towards the Marche (about two and a half hours).

Where to stay: in Ascoli Piceno.

Day 6: Ascoli Piceno

Ascoli Piceno is a city built of travertine: in the evening the stone of Piazza del Popolo glows almost golden, and the historic Caffè Meletti looks out over it. Visit the Piazza Arringo, the cathedral and the Roman bridge, and taste the olive all'ascolana, stuffed and fried olives, at their birthplace. In the afternoon drive into the Sibillini mountains towards Norcia (about an hour and a half).

Where to stay: in Norcia or nearby, for one night.

Day 7: Castelluccio and Norcia

At dawn climb to the Piano Grande of Castelluccio, an immense plateau at 1,300 metres beneath Monte Vettore. Between late June and mid-July, the lentil fields burst into colour with poppies, cornflowers and wild mustard: see the flowering of Castelluccio. The village was badly damaged by the 2016 earthquake and is slowly being rebuilt. Then go down to Norcia, the birthplace of Saint Benedict, whose basilica collapsed in 2016 and is being rebuilt. Norcia is famous for its norcini, master pork butchers: buy prosciutto, sausages and black truffle. See Norcia and its butchers' craft.

Day 8: Gubbio

Drive north through Umbria to Gubbio (about two hours), a town of grey stone climbing the slopes of Monte Ingino. Piazza Grande, a terrace hanging over the town, is dominated by the Palazzo dei Consoli. Ride the open "birdcage" cable car up to the basilica of Sant'Ubaldo, where the three great ceri of the Corsa dei Ceri, run every 15 May, are kept. Then drive to Perugia airport (about forty minutes) or back to Rome (about two and a half hours).

How much it costs

Accommodation525 €

Meals300 €

Car, fuel and tolls240 €

Admissions60 €

Rome to Santo Stefano2 hours

Pescocostanzo to Ascoli2.5 hours

Norcia to Gubbio2 hours

Ascoli to Norcia1.5 hours

Santo Stefano to Sulmona1 hours

To save money: in the villages a full lunch costs €20-30, and agriturismi offer half board at good prices. Avoid August, when Italians head for the mountains and prices rise. See our guide to travelling Italy on a budget.

Practical information

• Driving: mountain roads are winding and slow; plan on 40-50 km/h on average and fill up the tank in the towns.
• Weather: above 1,000 metres evenings are cool even in summer; bring a jacket. In winter many roads and the Campo Imperatore plateau can be snowbound.
• Earthquake areas: some churches and monuments in L'Aquila, Norcia and Castelluccio are still closed or under reconstruction; check before you go.
• Wildlife: in the national park keep to the paths, don't feed animals and keep dogs on a lead.

Variations

• L'Aquila: the rebuilt city, with the basilica of Collemaggio and the fountain of the 99 spouts; see L'Aquila.
• The Majella hermitages: the cliff-side hermitages of the Majella, such as Santo Spirito a Majella.
• The Marche Apennines: the Frasassi caves and the Gola del Furlo, between Ascoli and Gubbio.

What to read before you go

A hiking guide to the Gran Sasso and the Majella, a guide to the villages of Abruzzo and, for the spirit of these places, the classic writings on the transhumance and the tratturi. See also Italy's mountains.

Final tips

• Pace: one or two villages a day are enough; the beauty is in the slow drives between them.
• Combinations: from Gubbio and Assisi you can link up with the pilgrim ways itinerary, and from Norcia with the spa itinerary.
• A tip: sleep at least one night in an albergo diffuso: waking up in a medieval house in a silent village is half the experience.