Italy by train itinerary

The train is the best way to see Italy: city centres are reached without traffic or parking, high-speed lines link Milan to Rome in about three hours, and some lines are attractions in their own right, climbing over the Alps, crossing gorges on stone viaducts or running along cliffs above the sea. Italy also has a long railway history: its first line, from Naples to Portici, opened in 1839.

This eight-day itinerary crosses Italy from north to south using only trains and boats: the Bernina Express from Tirano over the Alps, Lake Maggiore with the Borromean Islands, the Vigezzina-Centovalli railway between Domodossola and Locarno, the Cinque Terre by local train, the Frecciarossa to Rome and the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii. See also our guide to getting around Italy.

1. Milan: departure
2. Tirano: the Bernina Express
3. St. Moritz: across the Alps
4. Stresa: Lake Maggiore
5. Domodossola: the Vigezzina-Centovalli
6. Locarno: the Swiss lake
7. La Spezia: the gateway to the Cinque Terre
8. Vernazza: the Cinque Terre
9. Rome: the Frecciarossa
10. Naples: the Circumvesuviana
11. Pompeii: the excavations

Italy's railways in brief

The first Italian railway, between Naples and the royal palace of Portici, opened in 1839 under the Bourbons. After Unification, the network grew to join a long, mountainous country, with tunnels through the Alps and the Apennines and lines along the coasts. In the early 20th century came the great mountain railways, such as the Bernina in Switzerland, which starts in Tirano, and the Vigezzina-Centovalli. In 2009 the high-speed line from Turin to Salerno via Milan, Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples was completed, changing how Italians travel.

1. 1839Italy's first railway opens, from Naples to Portici
2. 1910The Bernina railway is completed
3. 1923The Vigezzina-Centovalli railway opens
4. 2008The Albula and Bernina lines become a UNESCO site
5. 2009The Milan-Naples high-speed line is completed

Day 1: Milan to Tirano

From Milan Centrale, a regional train runs up the shore of Lake Como and the Valtellina to Tirano (about two and a half hours), with terraced vineyards on the mountainsides. Tirano is a small town on the Swiss border, with the Renaissance sanctuary of the Madonna di Tirano: the red trains of the Bernina run right past it, through the streets.

Where to stay: in Tirano, for two nights.

Day 2: the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express climbs from Tirano, at 430 metres, to the Ospizio Bernina pass, at 2,253 metres, without a rack, among glaciers and lakes, then descends to St. Moritz (about two and a half hours). Right after Tirano, the train turns a full circle on the Brusio spiral viaduct. The panoramic carriages need a seat reservation; regular regional trains on the same line cost less, have windows that open, and let you get off at Alp Grüm for lunch facing the Palü glacier. Return to Tirano in the afternoon.

Day 3: to Lake Maggiore

Return to Milan and continue to Stresa (about three and a half hours in total), on Lake Maggiore. In the afternoon take the boat to the Borromean Islands: Isola Bella, with the palace and Baroque gardens of the Borromeo family, and Isola dei Pescatori, a fishing village.

Where to stay: in Stresa, for two nights.

Day 4: the Vigezzina-Centovalli

Take the train to Domodossola (about thirty minutes), and from the underground station board the Vigezzina-Centovalli, a narrow-gauge railway that crosses the Val Vigezzo, the "valley of painters", and the Swiss Centovalli to Locarno (about two hours), on dozens of bridges and tunnels over gorges, waterfalls and chestnut woods. Stop at Santa Maria Maggiore, with its chimney sweep museum. From Locarno return to Stresa by boat across the lake (in summer) or by train via Domodossola.

Day 5: to the Cinque Terre

Travel from Stresa to La Spezia via Milan and Genoa (about four and a half hours), or via Milan and the high-speed line with a change. In the late afternoon take the local train to one of the five villages. Many travellers stay in La Spezia, which is cheaper, and reach the villages in a few minutes.

Where to stay: in La Spezia or one of the Cinque Terre villages, for two nights.

Day 6: the Cinque Terre by train

The Cinque Terre Express links La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso with frequent trains, mostly in tunnels, opening onto the sea at each station. With the Cinque Terre Card with train you have unlimited travel for the day. Walk at least one stretch of the coastal path, for example between Monterosso and Vernazza (about two hours), and have a swim. See the Cinque Terre and Vernazza.

Day 7: the Frecciarossa to Rome

Take a regional train to Pisa or Florence and then the Frecciarossa to Rome (about four hours in total). From Florence, the high-speed train reaches Rome in about an hour and a half, at up to 300 km/h. In the afternoon walk from Termini to the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.

Where to stay: in Rome.

Day 8: Naples and the Circumvesuviana

The Frecciarossa reaches Naples in about an hour and ten minutes. From Napoli Garibaldi station take the Circumvesuviana, the old local railway around Vesuvius, to Pompeii (about forty minutes) or, continuing, to Sorrento (about an hour). It is not a comfortable train, but it passes through the towns at the foot of the volcano and offers views of the bay. Return to Naples for your flight or train home.

How much it costs

Accommodation575 €

Meals320 €

Trains and boats280 €

Admissions70 €

Stresa to La Spezia4.5 hours

Milan to Tirano2.5 hours

Tirano to St. Moritz2.5 hours

Domodossola to Locarno2 hours

Florence to Rome1.5 hours

Rome to Naples1.2 hours

To save money: buy high-speed tickets several weeks ahead for the lowest fares, use regional trains, whose price never changes, where you can, and take the regular trains on the Bernina line instead of the panoramic ones. See travelling Italy on a budget.

Practical information

• Tickets: regional tickets bought on paper must be validated before boarding; digital tickets bought on the app usually need checking in. High-speed tickets are for a specific train.
• Switzerland: the Bernina and Centovalli lines cross into Switzerland; bring your passport or ID card, and note that prices there are in Swiss francs.
• Luggage: travel light; on regional trains and mountain railways there is little room for large suitcases.
• Strikes: rail strikes are announced in advance; check the calendar before you leave.

Variations

• The Trenino Verde: the historic narrow-gauge railways of inland Sardinia; see the Trenino Verde.
• Sicily: the train from Messina to Palermo along the coast, or the Circumetnea around Etna.
• Lake Como: the funicular from Como to Brunate; see the Brunate funicular.

What to read before you go

A guide to Europe's scenic railways, a book on the history of Italian railways and the timetables of the lines you plan to take. See also Italy's lakes and Italy's mountains.

Final tips

• Pace: alternate long travel days with days to explore on foot.
• Combinations: from Lake Maggiore you can link up with the Aosta Valley castles itinerary, and from Rome and Naples with the Grand Tour itinerary.
• A tip: on the Bernina, take a regular train with opening windows at least one way: the air of the glaciers and the sound of the wheels on the spiral viaduct are part of the journey.