ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 562 of 1001 · Lazio

Greccio

The sanctuary where St Francis created the first nativity scene

On a rocky spur above the Rieti valley, surrounded by holm oaks, the sanctuary of Greccio is linked to one of the most beloved Christian traditions. On Christmas night of 1223, St Francis of Assisi, back from the Holy Land, wanted to see with his own eyes the poverty in which Jesus was born: in a cave here he had a manger, an ox and a donkey prepared and celebrated mass in front of the local people. It was the first living nativity scene in history.

The sanctuary, built around the cave, preserves the Chapel of the Crib with a fourteenth century fresco of the scene, the friars' dormitory, the refectory and the cell of St Francis, all simple and austere. In the village of Greccio, a Museo del Presepio displays nativity scenes from all over the world.

Tip: every year around Christmas a historical re-enactment of the first nativity is staged with costumed villagers; in 2023 the eight-hundredth anniversary was celebrated.

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