ITALY TRAVELEscape
No. 164 of 1001 · Trentino-South Tyrol

Rango

The village with covered passages

On a sunny plateau of the Giudicarie Esteriori, between Lake Garda and the Brenta Dolomites, at about 800 metres, Rango is a tiny village of stone houses, one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", which seems to have stopped in time. For centuries it was a stop for merchants, pilgrims and travellers along the road linking the Garda area to the Val Rendena and the Brenta, and its houses were built close together, creating a compact and fascinating structure.

The peculiarity of Rango is its network of covered passages, the "volti" and androni: the houses, joined to each other, are crossed by vaulted passages, arches, porticoes, external wooden staircases, balconies and courtyards, which link the lanes and allowed the inhabitants to move from one house to another sheltered from snow and cold, a sort of single large house divided into many dwellings. Walking through the village, you discover stables, haylofts, wooden balconies, old fountains, frescoes and sundials. The village comes alive in a special way in December, when the Christmas market of Rango is held inside the houses, cellars, stables and courtyards, which open their doors to host the stalls of craftsmen, local products and food, one of the most original and atmospheric Christmas markets in the Alps. The plateau around Rango, with villages such as Fiavé, whose pile-dwellings are part of the UNESCO site of the prehistoric pile dwellings around the Alps, and Stenico, with its castle, is ideal for walks.

Tip: the Christmas market is held on weekends from late November to Christmas; taste the local Spressa delle Giudicarie cheese.

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