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No. 704 of 1001 · Campania

Via San Gregorio Armeno

The street of nativity scenes, open all year round

Linking Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali, Via San Gregorio Armeno is a short, narrow street entirely occupied by the workshops of the presepe makers, the artisans of the Neapolitan nativity scene. The tradition reached its peak in the eighteenth century, when the Bourbon court and the nobility competed to commission ever more elaborate scenes, full of figures from everyday life: shepherds, innkeepers, fishmongers, musicians, beggars.

Today the workshops are open all year and sell everything needed to build a crib, from tiny clay fruit baskets to complete scenes with running water and lights. Alongside the traditional figures, the artisans make ironic statuettes of footballers, politicians and celebrities, updated each year with the latest news. Halfway along the street stands the church of San Gregorio Armeno, with a rich baroque interior and a cloister.

Tip: the street is busiest from November to Christmas, when it is almost impossible to move; in other seasons you can watch the artisans at work in peace.

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