Heroic vineyards and pizzoccheri
The Valtellina, the long valley of the Adda river that crosses northern Lombardy from Lake Como to Bormio, has one of the most extraordinary wine landscapes in the Alps. On its south-facing slope, the Rhaetian side, about 2,500 kilometres of dry stone walls support narrow terraces where vines have been grown for centuries: this is "heroic viticulture", so called because the steepness of the slopes makes mechanisation impossible and every task is done by hand.
From the Nebbiolo grape, known here as Chiavennasca, come the great red wines of the valley: Valtellina Superiore DOCG, with its subzones Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, Valgella and Maroggia, and Sforzato di Valtellina, made from partly dried grapes, rich and powerful. The Via dei Terrazzamenti, a walking and cycling path of about 70 km between Morbegno and Tirano, crosses the vineyards with views of the valley. The cuisine of the valley is hearty: pizzoccheri, buckwheat tagliatelle with potatoes, cabbage, butter and Casera cheese; sciatt, buckwheat fritters with cheese; and bresaola, cured beef, and the Bitto and Valtellina Casera cheeses.
Tip: autumn is the best time, with the harvest and the colours of the vineyards; many wineries in Sondrio and Teglio offer tastings.
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