The village of the castle and the cave-aged caciocavallo
On a hill in the Ufita valley, in the province of Avellino, Zungoli is one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", a compact village of stone houses gathered around its Norman castle, rebuilt by the Loffredo family, with a massive cylindrical tower. The village lies along the ancient Via Francigena del Sud and the old sheep track, the "tratturo", that shepherds followed with their flocks between Abruzzo and Apulia.
Zungoli is famous for the caciocavallo podolico aged in caves: the "grotte" are cellars carved into the tuff beneath the houses, where the constant temperature and humidity allow this pear-shaped stretched-curd cheese to mature for months, taking on intense, spicy flavours. In August the village holds a festival dedicated to the caciocavallo, with tastings and visits to the caves. The lanes of the historic centre, with portals and coats of arms of noble families, and the views over the green hills of Irpinia make it a pleasant stop.
Tip: ask at the local dairies to visit the ageing caves; the caciocavallo is excellent grilled ("impiccato", hung over the fire) and melted on bread.
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